burger king it ain't

(if anyone can guess how the heading and the main text connect tell me. you are smart!)

the face the tibetans present to the world is that of a dalai lama - generally a warm, fuzzy, tolerant brand of buddhism. however on my recent india trip, i happened upon a slightly darker side during my visit to dharamsala.

before buddhism arrived in tibet, the tribal religion was called "Bon" - a tribalistic and shamanistic religion which (as I was told) venerates local gods, oftentimes with malevolent characteristics. according to the guide i was with, many Tibetans still practice Bon in synthesis with Buddhism, except that the gods (demons?) of Bon are subject to Buddhist influences / constraints and are forced to do good.

aside from popular worship, there also exist a number of Bon mediums (for a better word), who will conduct the appropriate rituals and have the spirits reside in them, whereafter they will prophesy and make pronouncements etc. the rituals appear strikingly similar to the rituals practised by mediums in traditional chinese or another religions, involving sacrifices and sometimes self-inflicted harm etc etc. i was brought into one of the Tibetan temples and a ritual hall, although thankfully i did not see the medium or the ritual. apparently the highest ranking medium (who the highest ranking spirit inhabits) also serves as a spiritual adviser to the government, and the Dalai Lama's personal approval is needed to invoke him, so that he will not be unduly harmed / tired out.

i found the whole thing very interesting, as it was definitely at odds with the public Tibetan image. that being said, very few of the people i met believed in or adhered to such practices. they were gentle, normal, peace-loving people.